Installed TB Ground Wire. Observations (CAUTION fairly long post)

[martman]

Hey all,

I recently installed TB Ground wire on my 5 and these are the fabrication/installation steps I took as well as my initial observations:

1.  Fabricating the cable was easy.  I took a length of 8 ga. 'Stinger' cable and crimped O ring connectors to both ends.  Total time: 15 minutes.  (I took the time to solder the cable to the crimped O ring - to ensure that it will never come off and heat shrunk each of the ends to 'weather proof.'  Equipment required: 10mm box ratchet, solder, pliers or vise grip  Materials required: 8 ga. cable/wire. O ring connectors  NOTE:  For the O ring connectors, I used Stinger Gold plated O ring connectors - left over from other projects I had done on other cars.
2.  Installation was equally easy and simple.  I attached one end of the cable to the 5's negative battery terminal and neatly routed the other end to the throttle body on the M5.  Of course, part of the whole procedure also includes removing the battery and engine cover.  Total time: 15 minutes Because I am anal about seeing a clean and tidy engine bay, I routed my cable through the front part of the battery box (where the existing cable exits - in the lower left side) and again, routed the cable through the maze of other cables and terminated at the rear upper throttle body bolt.  The effect is that the whole install looks stealthy and clean. Equipment required: 8 mm box ratchet  Materials required: None

OBSERVATIONS:
Keep in mind, I have only had this mod for a week.  My initial observation is that the 5 idles a bit more smoothly now.  Initial tip in seems to have improved (Better initial  acceleration reaction)
Using my butt dyno, I find that initial and mid-range acceleration reaction is better (more sensitive to right foot input)  It also seems that the 2.3 engine is more rev happy, but is a lot smoother.  BUT, it also seems that the engine is a lot happier all the way to at least the 4k RPM range (I am still breaking in my engine.  I have not pushed the 5 beyond 4k RPM)

I have found though that 1st gear holds longer than before.  I am not sure if this is a good thing or not.  It's just that I had just started getting used to the tranny (Auto) shifting at a certain rev range, but it certainly is shifting later.  It would also be interesting to note how this would affect gas consumption.  Later shifting usually means more gas, but, the engine generally 'pulls' a lot stronger now.

Also, the engine 'feels' smoother across the rev band.

If you are all interested, I can post pics of this little mod.  Also, for those M5 owners out there, and not to steal any thunder from Tony, I can certainly help out install this mod as well.

Next experiment:
Install a ground wire to the tranny housing.  Logic behind that:  Our trannies (at least the auto-stick ones) are all electronically controlled.  By improving the grounding to the tranny, I am hoping for even smoother shifting from the tranny.

Stay tuned for further observations and butt dyno testing.

BTW, I have to say thanks to Tony for his PMs and emails prior to my trying out this mod.  He also suggested I post something up on what I have done to the 5.

Cheers,

[derrick]

Add pictures if you can! Just in case anybody is confused about locations. I am thinking it would be fairly similar to the 3.

And let us know how the tranny grounding goes. Anything on the 5 should be identicaly to the 3.

And of course, a great writeup.

[tonyzoomzoom]

Thanks for sharing, martman   

[arfman]

Now that is a good detailed write up

[martman]

Add pictures if you can! Just in case anybody is confused about locations. I am thinking it would be fairly similar to the 3.

And let us know how the tranny grounding goes. Anything on the 5 should be identicaly to the 3.

And of course, a great writeup.

Thanks, Derrick.  I unfortunately did not take pics as I was installing, but it certainly should be simple enuf to take pics as this mod is simple and easy.  I should be able to post pics by the weekend (hopefully)

As for the tranny grounding, as Tony had mentioned to me on an email, I may have to loosen my stock airbox. To find an appropriate grounding point.  I will have to find time to do this.  The one thing I have found about the new generation of Mazdas is that the engine bay has a lot more shrouds and covers (read better protection from the elements) compared to the previous Hondas and Toyotas I have owned and did mods on, so finding a grounding point is a little more complicated than those other cars.  I will also have to experiment a little on where the best grounding point would be and where it gives the most benefit.

I will certainly post my install procedures and obesrevations once I have had a chance to do this.

Stay tuned.

[derrick]

Depending on where you want to connect the ground to your transmission, you may not have to remove/loosen the airbox. You might have to take out the splash guard lining underneath the motor (assuming the 5 has it).

[martman]

Depending on where you want to connect the ground to your transmission, you may not have to remove/loosen the airbox. You might have to take out the splash guard lining underneath the motor (assuming the 5 has it).

Thanks for the suggestion, Derrick.  I was looking into 'modding' the stock horn by adding a low tone horn anyway which involves removing the splash guard on the driver's side anyway.  I think that's an easier access than from the top - through the airfilter box.  I'll let you guys know the outcome.  And yes, I guess similar to the 3, the 5 has the same splash guards, etc. protecting the engine bay area.

If this works for me on the 5, I'll make sure you '3' guys are made aware of my observation(s).

Cheers,

[gemino]

Nice write up Martman

Hey all,

I recently installed TB Ground wire on my 5 and these are the fabrication/installation steps I took as well as my initial observations:

1. Fabricating the cable was easy. I took a length of 8 ga. 'Stinger' cable and crimped O ring connectors to both ends. Total time: 15 minutes. (I took the time to solder the cable to the crimped O ring - to ensure that it will never come off and heat shrunk each of the ends to 'weather proof.' Equipment required: 10mm box ratchet, solder, pliers or vise grip Materials required: 8 ga. cable/wire. O ring connectors NOTE: For the O ring connectors, I used Stinger Gold plated O ring connectors - left over from other projects I had done on other cars.
2. Installation was equally easy and simple. I attached one end of the cable to the 5's negative battery terminal and neatly routed the other end to the throttle body on the M5. Of course, part of the whole procedure also includes removing the battery and engine cover. Total time: 15 minutes Because I am anal about seeing a clean and tidy engine bay, I routed my cable through the front part of the battery box (where the existing cable exits - in the lower left side) and again, routed the cable through the maze of other cables and terminated at the rear upper throttle body bolt. The effect is that the whole install looks stealthy and clean. Equipment required: 8 mm box ratchet Materials required: None

#1 How much are those wire cost and rings worth?

#2 Lately I find out my 5 shakes when it's on idles at 550 RPM(I never notice this kind of shakes on my other car beside those old junks). But once I apply a bit gas to around 800RPM the engine become more "stable" or smooth (not sure what's the proper term for it). I wonder will this mod help or not?

OBSERVATIONS:
Keep in mind, I have only had this mod for a week. My initial observation is that the 5 idles a bit more smoothly now. Initial tip in seems to have improved (Better initial acceleration reaction)
Using my butt dyno, I find that initial and mid-range acceleration reaction is better (more sensitive to right foot input) It also seems that the 2.3 engine is more rev happy, but is a lot smoother. BUT, it also seems that the engine is a lot happier all the way to at least the 4k RPM range (I am still breaking in my engine. I have not pushed the 5 beyond 4k RPM)

Bah, I got mine to 5K - 6K RPM once awhile on M mode Guess I need to slow down a bit. 

[martman]

#1 How much are those wire cost and rings worth?

I did not keep track of my actual costs.  I had these parts left over from installing an amp kit on my brother's Toyota Echo.  I'll have to check that out for you.  Tony though I think sells the TB cables for something like $5.00 ?  If you are interested, I may some left over cables, and rings to do one more install.  I'll do one up for you as well.  I'll drop you a PM or email.

#2 Lately I find out my 5 shakes when it's on idles at 550 RPM(I never notice this kind of shakes on my other car beside those old junks). But once I apply a bit gas to around 800RPM the engine become more "stable" or smooth (not sure what's the proper term for it). I wonder will this mod help or not?

hmmm.  never experienced that on mine.  Having the TB ground cable might help ?  Offer still stands for a FREE TB gorund wire.  Let me check first though if I still have enuf cable to do one more job.

Bah, I got mine to 5K - 6K RPM once awhile on M mode Guess I need to slow down a bit. 

So, I baby my baby.  you got a problem wit dat?   

[derrick]

I can't seem to find the post now, but Joe Cheng made an excellent post about breaking in your engine and occasionally redlining it.

I believe the benefit of redlining the engine is that the piston will get fully extended up the sleeve as far as possible when you do. If you don't, then the constant friction will eventually create a ridge at the top of the stroke. Therefore if you baby it too much, and then suddenly wish to redline it, the piston will make contact with that ridge and thats not a good thing.

Just FYI. There are lots of posts about how to break in an engine, you just have to read through them and figure out what you believe.

If anybody wants a TB ground still, I have cable and rings lying around somewhere.

BTW, Joe also believes the TB ground doesn't do anything. Meh. I alway say draw your own conclusions.

[martman]

True, you can draw your own conclusions.  In my case, ever since the ground wire concept was introduced to me when I had a Matrix XRS, I have found this inexpensive mod to be beneficial.  Having also researched on the subject quite a bit, I came across this article.  http://www.caraudiomag.com/testreports/0401cae_hyper_ground_system/

Again, each one can draw his/her own conclusions to it.  For me, I am one of the converted.

[rancid]

stickied!